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Installation Instructions for 2"
Residential 7' & 8' High Doors
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Door Operation /Trouble Shooting
(1) How should my door operate ? - In the closed position, your top section should tip back smoothly and in a controlled manner, upon activating the automatic operator. It should open completely clearing the header, however some face hardware may be slightly below the opening. Upon closing, there should be a smooth transition around the curve and the top section will be pushed closed and locked under the spring mount, finishing the cycle.
(2) Doesn't safety reverse- Safety reversing relies on a jamming action of the top section, instead of downward pressure. This method is very sensitive and reliable even if the force adjustment accidentally gets turned up, because normal crushing energy is re-directed to the top section horizontally, instead of vertically to the bottom section. ( I personally test my jobs out with a 1" block of stryophome ) In order to properly achieve this, the spring assembly must be close to the top of the door. You may find that our mathematical formula requires some adjustment, depending on who manufactured your track. You want to have the horizontal track positioned, so the bottom of the track is even or just above the header. Be sure to take notes, so you will know the procedure for next time.
(3) Doesn't run smooth around the curve, to a closed position - Make sure to have the curved part of the operator arm attached to the trolly part of the operator, and the operator door attachment on top of the door section. ( as described in the instructions ) It all has to do with pivotal points. Any place that bends is a pivoting point and if they don't work as one, jamming could occur. If you ever put a roller in the wrong hole of your door hinge, you will know what I'm talking about.
(4) Door doesn't seem to balance properly - Your door regardless of what hardware is on it, should stay at any point you place it and run smoothly through it's entire cycle. If you find that your door doesn't want stay on the floor by it's self, then seems to shoot up and run out of energy, you have a springing problem. Pan doors seem to be notoriously bad for that, even with a standard application. Basically Your door is to light for the spring wire size and length. You are going to have to deal with it, the boss and customer are depending on you ! What I do is add punched angle for more weight, in some tasteful way and then back spring tension off, until I reach a happy medium. I myself like to use foam injected door sections, they just seem to balance out better and are stronger anyhow.
(5) Top section prematurely starts tipping in before the door is seated to the floor - More than likely your operator set up is wrong, or it's a spring issue. Refer to picture reference guide supplied with the instructions for operator set up. Still stuck ? Back off the bottom of the weather strip, get the job done and paid for. Call me immediately ( preferably by e-mail ) and I will help you resolve any problems. Final Notes - Although our brackets are finding their way around the world, it is ultimately you the installer who has to make them work properly. Low headroom is a tough thing to deal with and becomes more difficult as tolerances decrease. What I want to hear from you is : A job that normally would have been a nightmare or impossible to install is now simple, easy and no problem. When that occurs, we will move on to more advanced techniques and modifications.
Step By Step Installation Instructions
1) Cutting the Track: Take the door height and subtract the curve radius, then cut the bottom off the vertical track at that measurement.
- (i.e.) Door height is 84" - the curve radius 12" = 72" the height of the vertical track.
Door height is 96" - the curve radius 12" = 84" the height of the vertical track.
3) Locking the Door Down Positively to the Floor: To ensure the door is locked down to the floor and ensure there is no upper movement, simply lag a small piece of punched angle to the header so that when the top section tips inwards it goes under the punched angle.
4) Building the Operator Door Mount: This part is very important to ensure the smooth operation of the system.
Bolt the standard operator mounting bracket to either the operator reinforcing bracket or you may use punched angle. Position the operator mounting bracket as high on the door as possible to ensure a smooth transition around the curve radius. If using punched angle on a steel non insulated door it will be necessary to attach your punched angle vertically on the center stile. (optional) Use a single piece of punched angle across the entire top of the door to add additional strength.
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